Friday, 27 April 2012

Aotearoa Round 2 - Sweet As!


And so my travels in New Zealand have finally come to a close. I spent an additional 9 and a half days running around being a crazy tourist, and I was quite happy with everything that I saw. Definitely worth the return trip!

So I flew back from Glen Helen on April 11th and spent a few days re-organizing myself. I shipped home one of my giant suitcases! I’m starting my preparations to go home at the end of August. I’d like to be able to get on the airplane without checking additional bags at extra cost and without paying heavy baggage fees. It’s going to be tough, but I am determined to make it work!  I’d like to say that my time in Sydney was enjoyable, but it was not. While I very much liked being in a city again (although being amongst massive quantities of people again was a bit strange…) and eating lots of thai food and soup dumplings, the hostel I stayed in was absolutely awful. I tried a new one this time because it was in my old neighborhood, but it was terrible. Gross, uninhabitable, and filled with inconsiderate nitwits. I was not a fan at all. I will not be returning.

I flew in to Wellington to start NZ round 2, which is the capital of the country at the bottom of the north island. I was standing in line to get through customs when I saw someone who looked like Orlando Bloom. I said to myself: that looks like Orlando Bloom! Then I took another look at the dark-haired guy carrying the year-old baby who looked to be the same age as Orlando’s son Flynn, and then I said to myself: That IS Orlando Bloom and Flynn! An A-list celebrity and a celebrity offspring sighting! So exciting! What better welcome back to New Zealand present than having Legolas himself greet me at the airport! I guess it does make sense though. He is filming The Hobbit movie in Wellington, and he has to get there somehow! I was quite pumped to be back in Kiwi land after that. I’d been in the country for like 7 seconds and I was already seeing some cool stuff J

The rest of the day was spent relaxing at the hostel in Wellington. I’d stayed at the place a couple of times when I was in town before – it’s a nice hostel, converted from a hotel, so it has much more of a hotel-vibe to it than a backpacker joint.

Day 1 in New Zealand Round 2 was spent at Te Papa, New Zealand’s national museum. It’s a pretty hi-tech place. Very modern, with exhibits on New Zealand’s geology and geography, Maori culture, and European history. I went on an introductory tour first, and then wandered around for the rest of the day myself. I was quite impressed with everything. They had a giant colorful marae (Maori meeting house), a hologram show, a house that shakes to simulate an earthquake and a couple of motion simulator rides. Te Papa was much more bad-ass than any museum I can recall visiting in the recent past.  I was already pleased with my decision to return to the country. I wouldn’t have wanted to miss that experience.

Day 2 was also spent in Wellington. I went on my first Lord of the Rings tour! It was a day trip through the Wellington area to visit film locations, as well as to visit the Weta Caves, which is where a lot of movie production is done for films made in New Zealand. The tour group was small that day, just me and one other girl – ironically, a Cornell undergrad from Trumansburg. Small world! We visited lots of places in the Wellington area. It was neat to see where they filmed stuff, but it was also nice to get to drive around Wellington and the surrounding area just to see what it looked like. We took a bunch of super dorky photos at the different film locations; and while I think they are super awesome, some of them are so nerdy that I dare not actually post them on the blog (or facebook J) Here are a couple of non-dorky ones though:

We learned quite a bit about how they filmed things to give the appearance of people being all different sizes. Here’s an example shot of me and the other chick – both of us are about the same height, but not in the photo:


Pretty cool trick, eh? Here’s another picture:



Looks pretty dull, but this is THE spot where they hobbits hid from the Nazgul in the first movie (the tree was computer generated):


 All in all, a very worthwhile excursion!

Day 3 was a travel day. I took a bus from Wellington to Rotorua, which is about a 7 hour drive. Once I got to Rotorua I went souvenir shopping for all the things that I didn’t buy last time. I also have to mention the Rotorua hostel. Super nice, and one of my favorite hostels I’ve stayed at thus far on this whole trip. It was a big old house, and the place was run by a very nice husband and wife team. There were beds only, NO bunks, and the mattresses were quite comfy. I managed to sneak a bed in an alcove, so it felt like I was sharing the room with only one other person. Plus the place had bathtubs and a hot tub outside. Not bad for $22 a night!

Day 4 was the start of the last section of the Stray bus tour. There is a 3 day side trip based out of Rotorua that I didn’t have time to do on the first trip, so I scheduled it for round 2. It was just a small van, only 8 of us plus the driver. We went out to the eastern cape of the north island, which has a very high population of Maori people. The drive out to the first overnight stop was lovely, but the roads were super windy and I got a bit of motion sickness. I’m getting old! Here’s a photo of the place we stayed at:


 It was a little hostel run by a Maori guy and his family in a pretty rural section of the coast – no mobile service! I spent the afternoon on a fishing boat. We rode around the bay picking up lobster traps. Those suckers are HUGE! Here I am posing with a few of our conquests:


We had a nice bbq dinner that night (including freshly caught lobsters J) that our driver prepared, and then stayed up late chit chatting. It was nice and relaxing.

Day 5 we slowly made our way over to Gisborne, which is the biggest city on the east cape. We stopped at a few little touristy spots along the way before arriving at our hostel, which was another beach shack, only this one had a farm in the backyard. Ocean in the front and farm in the back – not too bad! Here’s a picture of the yard right out front:


We had a traditional Maori hangi meal for dinner that night in an enclosed fire pit -  also quite a nice evening. I wasn’t too hungry, so I ended up feeding most of the meat in my meal to the hostel cat in a weak attempt to buy his affection.

The morning of day 6 was spent at the beach hostel. A lot of people went surfing with the free surfboards provided, but I took the opportunity to hang out solo in the hot tub instead. I then spent the rest of the morning chasing around the cat, with partial success. We took a slow afternoon drive back to Rotorua, again stopping at a few local tourist spots along the way. We got back to town around 5:30, where I hopped off the Stray bus for the final time! The hop on hop off bus ended up being a great move for me. I took advantage of the hopping off feature when I travelled most of the country in December/early January, plus I was able to see so much more than I would have with a regular tour. I will miss the orange Stray bus!

Day 7 was back to me on my own. My first stop was a morning trip to Rainbow Springs Wildlife Park. It was just outside the Rotorua CBD, so it was a short bus ride. The main reason for my trip to the wildlife park was to see a kiwi bird. In fact, one of the main reasons I returned to New Zealand was to see a kiwi. It seemed criminal to have spent all that time in Kiwi land without actually seeing one of the famous endangered national birds! I took a 10 am tour of the country’s largest kiwi hatchery. I didn’t get to see any birds in the hatchery, but there were 4 in the nocturnal viewing area, including one who was running laps like a madman. They’re so cute! I learned quite a bit about them on the tour – I really didn’t know much at all beforehand. My only regret is that I wasn’t able to get any pictures of them. They’re very sensitive to light, so you can’t take any photos of them L. The rest of the park was nice as well. Tons of native birds and trees, including a kea bird who danced better than I can.

The afternoon of day 7 was spent going on a 2 hour walking tour of Rotorua that was recommended by one of the hostel owners. It took me first through Kuirau park, which is a free area of geothermal activity to walk through. Rotorua is famous for its steam vents and boiling mud pools and sulphur smell – it’s an area of very active volcanic and geothermal activity. The next stop on the walk was through a Maori village on the shores of lake rotorua. The village itself was interesting enough, but the fact that some of the homes had backyards with steam rising out of them was pretty awesome; although I think I’d find that more amusing in theory than in practice – having a geothermal steam vent in my backyard might freak me out a bit. The last part of the walk took me by the shores of lake rotorua around a golf course. Lots more random steam vents, pretty views, and a wildlife reserve. I returned to my hostel 2 hours later with sore feet and a lot of awesome pictures.

I went to the pools at the Polynesian spa that night. It’s rated as one of the world’s top 10 spas, and it was only 2 blocks from where I was staying. There were 7 pools in total, including one that overlooked the lake. I sat in the lakeside pool and watched the sun set over the water. It was pretty cool J

I woke up early on day 8 to take a bus to a farm outside of Matamata – the home of HOBBITON! The actual Hobbiton set isn’t exactly the one that was used in Lord of the Rings – they unfortunately dismantled it after they were done filming. The current set is the re-created one that was built for the filming of the upcoming Hobbit films. Whatever, it’s still Hobbiton! It was unreal being on a LOTR set – like stepping into a movie! Here I am in front of one of the hobbit holes:


I even bought the Hobbit book at the Hobbiton store. I haven’t read it yet, so I figured what better place on earth to buy the book than the homeland of the Hobbits? It was the perfect souvenir for the perfect morning out in the Shire.

I spent that afternoon at Te Puia, which is sort of a Maori cultural park. They had a carving school where you could watch the apprentices learn traditional carving skills, a weaving school, a model village, a kiwi house (this kiwi was sleeping though), and a thermal area with a geyser that went off every 30 minutes or so. Here’s a picture of the landscape at Te Puia:


My last stop of the day was at a local spa for a mud bath. It was 20 minutes in a super hot bathtub filled with thermal mud. It was fun! The water was a bit too warm though, and I ended up giving myself a headache by sitting in there and playing with the mud for too long.

Day 9 was my last full day in New Zealand. I spent the morning at Wai-O-Tapu, which is another thermal area. I’d already seen a bunch of thermal stuff, but this place was known for being particularly spectacular – and it certainly was! The colors and the features at this place are really indescribable. It was like walking through another planet. Here’s one photo of the landscape:


And here’s me in front of a pool of water that’s naturally neon green:


The rest of the afternoon was spent waiting for 5 pm to get on my bus back up to Auckland. The next morning I got up at 4:45 in the morning and flew back to Sydney. The morning that followed that was a flight back up to Alice Springs for a few days rest at Glen Helen – and then the big schlep begins. 2 and a half months starting in Tasmania, and then going allllll the way around the country. But my plan for the next few days involves a lot of sitting and coke drinking and watching tv J.

Wednesday, 11 April 2012

Last Month at GHR


I’m back! No, I haven’t forgotten about my blog. I’m very aware that it’s been nearly a month since I updated last, which certainly breaks my guidelines of trying to do an entry every couple of weeks. I suppose part of the reason is that there hasn’t been a whole lot going on recently that’s blog-able. I even had a conversation with a co-worker about it the other day. For the most part, there aren’t a lot of things that happen day to day that my general readers would care about. There’s only so much of this kind of stuff that you guys would find entertaining: Got another mosquito bite today. Saw a snake. Picked him up and played with him. Fed a centipede to a lizard. Sold a meat pie. Struggled to open the “twist top” with a bottle opener on yet ANOTHER bottle of beer. Spilled unidentified food substances on myself. Yadda yadda…. You get the idea. My personal journal has been a bit thin over the past few weeks as well. Now that’s not to say that my time at Glen Helen has been dull towards the end, after I got over the excitement of the new surroundings and new job - quite the contrary, in fact. I just think towards the end of my stay in the West MacDonnell ranges, I simply started to focus more on living my life than constantly stressing about squeezing in the time to write about it – and that’s not necessarily a bad thing.

We finally got over the slump of the slow season. While I adore the heat of the desert in the summer, most people disagree and Central Australia isn’t super packed with tourists during the summertime (keep in mind summer is Dec/Jan/Feb!) I started in the midst of the slow season, where it was commonplace for there to be only a couple of the 25 motel rooms with people in them. Things start to pick up a bit in April, so for my final wok weekend I got a taste of what the busy season is like. My last weekend was Easter weekend, when the place was jam packed. Full motel, half-full backpacker bunkhouse, and half-full campground. That’s a LOT of f*cking people, who all need stuff all at the same time. It was especially tough because other than Easter weekend, it’s still not super busy, so the staff numbers aren’t really at what they normally would be when the place is consistently full over July & August. That meant there was a LOT of work to be done and not a lot of workers, ALL of the time. It was interesting. On Good Friday I started work at 2 pm and by the time we closed up the place so that it wasn’t a complete dire mess, it was 1:15 am. The next day I started at 12:30 in the afternoon and left at 12:15 am, just shy of the 12-hour mark. Easter weekend is a big family camping and party weekend in Australia – no partying for us in the hospitality industry though! Despite being slightly stressed out, I was glad for the experience. It gets quite crazy when the place is hopping. Plus the live entertainment recently started up again, so the homestead has a much livelier feel to it with live music 5 nights a week. Much different from those early days in January where we were closing up the registers and locking the doors at 8:30 at night, and I spent my days windexing windows that had been thoroughly windexed the day before, waiting for someone to show up and buy a coke or a beer or an ice cream cone.

We also had some recent missing person drama. A mentally disabled man somehow got away from his family while going out for a hike by Redbank gorge and was gone for quite a while. We cancelled our scenic helicopter flights and the pilot spent his days doing search and rescue instead. There were cops and search and rescue people everywhere for a couple of days. He was finally found, sitting on a cliff somewhere. He had eventually realized to light a fire, and our pilot was able to spot the smoke.


My last shift was quite special. It was documented as a photo essay! If I could go back in time, one of the things I would have done differently at Glen Helen is better photo documentation. I spent all this time at this place and with a certain small group of people, and barely had any pictures of anything at all! My last shift I had my good friend & next door neighbor (whose identity shall be suppressed per his/her wishes!!! J)  follow me around and take pictures of everything. Literally. Everything. I even have pictures of me taking out the trash and trying in vain to discern the old, scruffy cutlery from the new shiny stuff. It’s quite brilliant actually. Here are some of my favorite ones:

Me helping someone at reception:


Me pumping gas!!!!


Me being a waitress:


Me doing my favorite activity – restocking the fridge!!!!


And, the one thing I thought I’d never do in life – me being a bartender!


I was pretty content with most of my last shift. It was fairly busy, and we had a pretty packed restaurant that night as well. I did the waitressing all by myself, with no help and no mistakes. I was pretty pleased with that. Everyone hung out for quite a few hours after, and we had a fun night. It was a good way to close out my Glen Helen career.

I had booked my flight to go back to Sydney on April 11th, and was therefore planning on working up through the 10th. One of the staff needed to be in town on the 10th though, so I left a day early and spent my last day in Central Australia hanging out in civilization again.  I had McDonalds chicken nuggets for lunch, and even went to the movies! As much as I will miss my new home away from home 135 km west of Alice Springs, it was quite nice to be in civilization again.

I’m writing this from the plane (at least the first draft anyway). We’re probably about 45 minutes outside of Sydney at this point. When I was walking towards the airplane in Alice, seeing the airport for the first time since I stepped off the flight coming up here on January 23rd, I was amazed at how quickly the time flew. I’ve been up here about 11 weeks. It seemed more like 11 days! Time in general is flying  by quickly. The month after next, I’ll hit the one year mark away from home.

As this era comes to a close, it’s only fitting to do a recap on the experience. I wish I could recap the era nicely and put it into a concise little paragraph filled with reflections and witty commentary on my time as an outback waitress and bartender, but that would be impossible. Once I got to Australia and the panic attack of oh-my-gosh-what-have-I-done settled and dissipated, I decided that I wanted to have a nice city job in Sydney (which I successfully found at HSBC) and a nice random ass job somewhere a bit more rural somewhere else; the kind of job that I could only do in Australia. I don’t recall exactly what got me thinking about the outback, but it seemed like it would be a cool experience. I vaguely remember stumbling across the Northern Territory’s official website and falling across this video:


I was sold. Lots of emails and plan arrangements later, I stepped off an airplane in Alice Springs to be picked up by one of the owners of Glen Helen Resort, who was nice enough to hire me without any hospitality experience. I don’t know what it was exactly about the place, but I decided that’s where I wanted to be, and I made it work. I changed a bit of the overall plan for my year in Oz to make Glen Helen fit into my schedule, and I can’t say that I have any regrets. Both the job experiences and the personal experiences out there in the middle of nowhere were priceless. Never in my wildest dreams did I envision myself as a bartender at an Australian outback pub, but there I was, the girl from Queens pouring drinks in the Northern Territory. Pretty good stuff!

When I got back from my 2 and a half months of travels in January – that would be Jillaroo school, surf camp, and my tour of New Zealand, for those of you who are a little fuzzy on the details – I couldn’t wait for more. I sort of looked at my time at Glen Helen as somewhat of a means to an end. While I hoped to enjoy the experience of living and working in the outback, I looked at the time up here as a time to make money and relax. I had sleep to catch up on, books to read and dozens of discs of Lost to watch. I planned on lots of journal writing and lots of coke drinking, spending quiet time in my very own room. In the end though, Glen Helen has been the most significant experience of this whole trip thus far, and I can already say with confidence that it’ll remain so, regardless of what comes next. Yes, there is scuba diving to be done, Hobbiton to visit, great white sharks to swim with and many nights ahead of me sleeping in a swag under the stars; but in the end, sometimes the more basic things in life carry much more meaning and have a much greater impact.

What’s next for me? 3 days in Sydney that are going to be filled with lots of yummy asian food and even more not so yummy (but necessary) errands, and then off to New Zealand! Yes, I’ve been there before. But there was so much more to do that I’m going back. I have 10 days of stuff planned for myself before I start touring Australia! After that I fly over to London (and Suzy’s couch) for the Olympics, followed by a quick visit to Paris and a yet-to-be-determined location, and then…Whitestone? My goodness, time flies!